andyfrost

That’s a shame , I rate the F15 very highly , I have a late electronic version on one of my wide box Howard Bantams , it made a very good replacement for the completely worn out MK15 , shares the same footprint , and bolts on with no alterations needed.VERY easy starter and delivers bags of power.

Andy.

I actually learned the ridging idea from my Father , he bought a Titan brand new in the early 70s , I spent hours with it as a youngster ridging up Leeks , never used the finger tines , just the two inner tines , it worked extremely well

Andy.

Life is always about opinions , but personally I never could see the real point in those discs , the optional inturned outer rotors did exactly the same thing.

Andy.

When using a merry tiller all I used to use were the two internal rotors combined with the ridger. I found that by using the rotors “backwards” it improved the traction so to speak.
I now use a Howard bantam system , which are by miles the best potato machine .

Andy.

HS being the later version ,Villiers effort for a shade more power, all HS models should be timed 1/8″.In reality as far as I’m aware there is no difference between the standard model and the early HS models as far as internals are concerned , later HS were fitted with the later style of flywheel and magneto.

Andy.

Angus , being fitted with the s12 carb would mean it’s a later model , hence 1/8″ timing.

Andy.

It may be “process of elimination” check the timing is correct. It’s far better to remove the cylinder head to do this , the points should just begin to crack open at 1/8″ BTDC.

Andy

It’s always hard to say without actually being there , but from your video it does seem to me like a timing issue.
In your ownership has it ever ran OK , or are you the new owner.

Andy.

Any reputable garden machinery dealer should have a proper tester , try to go for one that’s been in buisness for quite a while , most modern upstarts know next to nothing about coils and condensers.
Spitting and banging is quite often incorrect timing thoroughly check it.

Andy.

Couldn’t get that link to work , first and foremost would be to get the coil and condenser PROPERLY tested , and by that I don’t mean wasting ones time with a multimeter.

Andy.

I’m fairly certain that is a variant of the 4/5 Carb , which was unique to Atco(I’m not 100% on that , but have never seen it on any other machine)
It’s a very simple carb to work on and get clean , which leads me to suspect you have an ignition problem , either timing , or coil/condenser failure.

Andy.

To me it looks like the drive system from a Ransomes Multimower.

Andy.

Nice to see another machine saved , and going to use. It’s only the modern Howard orange that is bright , originally 350s had what I would say was a semi-gloss finish.
George at Villiersparts did have some ID plates , worth checking if he has any left.

Andy.

Before you go about removing the flywheel(which will involve re-setting the timing) , just remove the circular brass points cover and thoroughly clean the points , you may just be lucky if it’s been standing awhile that the points have a covering of corrosion. This can be done without removing the flywheel.

Andy.

I would agree with Charlie , only my personal opinion , but I think it is ridiculously overpriced , as has been said carefully no mention of any issues , or whether it actually runs.
Having said that , it is ultimately the current market and what some folk are prepared to pay that controls prices. Due to recent events with more people going into…[Read more]

From memory there are 5 positions , it should (as a starting guide) be in the 3rd or 4th grove try it and go from there.
One point I have overlooked , is the manifold butterfly free and working.

Andy.

Steve , there is no main running jet , adjustment is done by altering the height of the fuel needle , slip the holding circlip out and lower the needle by one notch.
Incorrect timing will cause poor running , but we must try to help you eliminate one problem at a time.

Andy.

Before you even think about removing the flywheel , THOROUGHLY go over your carb again , check the jet and its passageway in the bottom of the float bowl , these have a nasty habit of corroding badly. The mixture jet is for tickover only , main running mixture is achieved by raising/lowering the fuel needle

Andy.

Before you even think about removing the flywheel , THOROUGHLY go over your carb again , check the jet and its passageway in the bottom of the float bowl , these have a nasty habit of corroding badly.

Andy.

Geoff , one tip , make sure your horsemuck is at least three years old , IMO using “fresh” horsemuck will do more harm than good.

Andy.