andyfrost

Angus , personally I would stick to the corks , I try to make a habit of regularly starting my machines around every three weeks ,and run them for a couple of minutes. I find this keeps your corks OK. The downfall of this is of course remembering to keep the habit up.The alternative is to run all the fuel out of tank and carb , then remove the…[Read more]

Villiers MK12 , fitted with reduction box , the HS denotes High Speed , used in numerous agricultural/industrial machines where slow RPM was required.

Andy.

Wishing you all a healthy and happy Christmas……….may all you bolts undo easily.

Andy.

Sadly that’s the way of the modern world , if it isn’t on the computer the majority don’t want to know , they won’t even open a box or package to give you measurements , so frustrating , as I’m finding out trying to source air filters.

Andy.

Just back home from a truly great weekend in superb company. A HUGE thanks to Dave C and all the organisers , and above all to Dave W for his hospitality . Sorry I didn’t get to thank you all in person , buy you were all on the Weeley Wander.

Andy.

It seems you have got it sorted , have you tried Briggsbits , I always find them most helpful , and assuming all your parts are original , with original cowling and correct numbers stamped , they will sort you out with the correct spring.

Andy.

I can only see one photo , we really need a good close up of your carb.

Andy.

Some clear and precise close-up pics would help.

Andy.

Engine wise manuals are usually available on the well known auction site. For engine spares (Villiers Mk10) George at Villiersparts or L&S Engineers both hold quite a few spares.

Andy.

Peter , a couple of things…….. Firstly glad you have joined us and a warm welcome.
Secondly , looking at your first photo , it appears someone in the past has had the cylinder head off and put it back incorrectly , the cooling fins should be the opposite to what’s in the picture , in order for the air to run through them, I hope I’m making…[Read more]

Spot on Geoff , you have a better way with words than me.

You have a JAP80 , in image three you will see three threaded holes , you will need to make up a puller using these three holes , on no account try to remove it using a puller on the outside edge of the flywheel , as you run a great risk of splitting the flywheel.It’s on a taper , and once you have made a suitable puller , it should pop off…[Read more]

Surely there are two jets , one for high revs and one for low ?? , seems to me the jets are not balanced correctly.

Andy.

Yes getting them running as well as can be sounds fine. I’m well aware you are a great distance from me(I’m in Norfolk) , but on older machines some clumsy courier is the last thing you want. If it is at all possible to bring them to me , I can certainly help.

Andy.

Yes getting them running as well as can be sounds fine. I’m well aware you are a great distance from me(I’m in Norfolk) , but on older machines some clumsy courier is the last thing you want. If it is at all possible to bring them to me , I can certainly help.

Andy.

Do you have any idea what is wrong with them , take in mind parts thesedays are becoming very expensive, with that in mind my suggestion would be just getting them into reasonable running order.

Andy.

Whereabouts are you based.

Andy.

Andrew Hall is your man to tell you.

Andy.

My problem was just the opposite , it was running too rich , I toyed with the float level for ages , then downsized the jet and it now runs like a clock.
Does yours improve with a little choke applied.

Andy.

Regarding the rich issue , did you get any handbooks with it that explain different fuel jets for varying conditions. The reason I ask is I’ve just had similar issues with a very early Honda engine , changing the main jet from 85 down to 80 has cured the problem.

Andy.