Vintage Horticultural and Garden Machinery Club

I hope that this does not add to the confusion but I have a parts book from the early 80s and the numbers are nothing like those that you have , so I’m guessing that your machine is a much later version. If it has not been re- engined the BS Model, Type And Code Numbers will give an indication of the machines date . The Code Number indicating w…[Read more]

If your tap has a “ gland nut” a fraction of a turn may cure the leak. Also it used to be possible to buy a new “ packing” for the spindle – similar to old plumbing taps. In the past I’ve effected a temporary repair using a bit of well greased starter cord as a packing.

That’s good, as I suspected. The movement of the arm on the shaft is a basic setting, not an adjustment, meaning it’s either correct of incorrect – no partially correct. The usual procedure is as follows, but consult the workshop manual wherever possible.
Slacken the clamp just enough to allow the shaft to be rotated. Then move the governor arm…[Read more]

One reason why it may have been running flat out was I had not connected the gearbox. It has no clutch, so the drag of turning the gears would of course slow it down a bit.

Na, erroneous thinking! Correctly set up that engine should start, idle and run at full throttle under governor control with no external load. Let’s see a decent image or t…[Read more]

Sounds as though someone may have messed with the governor, hopefully only the external linkage and not a problem with the internal mechanism. A decent image of where the governor shaft emerges from the crankcase and the arm clamped to it will help with suggestions for resetting it.

They made winches and modified tractors for timber extraction. Eventually they were absorbed by T.H.White and moved to Devizes in Wiltshire.

I believe that their winch tractors were also used for handling barrage balloons during the war and also to assist with stringing cables between pylons for the National Electricity Grid.

I guess that the…[Read more]

They made winches and modified tractors for timber extraction. Eventually they were absorbed by T.H.White and moved to Devizes in Wiltshire.

I believe that their winch tractors were also used for handling barrage balloons during the war and also to assist with striking cables between pylons for the National Electricity Grid.

I guess that the…[Read more]

The early ones had a three piece bearing, cup, race and cone, on each side of the wheel. They became difficult to find many years ago. May be worth trying Jon Cruse at the Hailsham Mower Centre. The later ones had a pressed in capsule one piece bearing on each side of the wheel. The later ones were used in the front wheels of the Harrier 48 etc…[Read more]

Found the instructions for the Hunter Olympic shear grinder saved on the ‘puter as a 2043PDF file but don’t seem to be able to attach it. Advice needed!!

Had a think!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5bvaweh1z4s8w0q/Olympic%20shear%20grinder%20instructions0001.pdf?dl=0

Found the instructions for the Hunter Olympic shear grinder saved on the ‘puter as a 2043PDF file but don’t seem to be able to attach it. Advice needed!!

A couple of images will help .

I sent you a pm a couple of weeks ago – not of interest or in your junk folder ?

Just Google Tecumseh H60 -there’s plenty on line.

This may be of interest
http://www.vehicle-electrical-rewinds.co.uk/how-dynastarts-work.html

I had an early Bug with a Tecumseh engine and that was white. In the early days of Westwood there was a certain amount of making it up as they went along and “ use what they had”. It sounds as though what you have is a Dynostart – starter and generator combined – the two functions in one unit, not that unusual in those days when many of the eng…[Read more]

The make and model of engine would be a good place to start!

Sad to see another small business go. I would think that the BRL will find a home , especially if it’s single phase electrics. I have it’s twin with me now. I also had a Hunter shear grinder in my old business, a bit fiddly to use but did a proper job. I may be able to lay my hands on a set of operating instructions if it will help sell it. ( pls…[Read more]

Your resistance reading on the primary is probably ok but the zero on the secondary is not good – a good coil will show resistance on both windings.
A bad winding on my meter will either show 0.L ( open loop ) or 0.00 for a dead short – no resistance. So the zero on your secondary suggests an internal dead short – not unusual for an old coil…[Read more]

The HT lead is connected to the secondary coil winding. Check resistance between end of HT and earth. The primary winding is earthed at one end and the other probably shares a common terminal with the condenser on the points. Disconnect the condenser make sure that the points are open and take a resistance reading between that lead and earth.

I take it that you have fitted either a Nova or Meco trigger module ? I’m a bit puzzled about this 14 volts from the HT lead; one would expect in the region of 22k + volts from a standard ignition system in good health – that is a good belt!
The coil may have two low tension wires one to ground and the other to the points and condenser – or in y…[Read more]