STUART

Looks like you have two different tines there for different machines.

Remove or grind away the dud condensor from the mounting lug.Buy a new condensor of the same size and carefully attach it or solder it onto the original lug.I have done it many times on various ignition stator plates.

If you know anyone with a lathe cant you get some made ?

You would need to change the points cam.Also its position on the rotors taper is very important as the contact breakers need to open at just the right time (when the magnetic field is collapsing / breaking down).

If the engine has an oil alert / low oil sensor then check your oil level as if allowed to get too low it will do its job and cut the ignition out saving you an expensive repair !.
As for the air gap one of those small paper / card labels (you know the ones with a string attached) will be ok.

If you have a small rotary honing tool (the type you fit in an electric drill) give the cylinder bore a quick hone (dont use too much drill speed though and use some lubricant too !).You can get a good finish with a little practice.Set the piston rings 120 degrees apart (for pistons with 3 rings at the top).I have had perfectly acceptable results…[Read more]

I am in Northamptonshire.

I have fitted many 1/4″ valve guides in Briggs and Stratton engines over the years (the smaller size engines where the alloy cylinder block is also the valve guide material).You have to ream the worn alloy guide first,then press the replacement brass guide in and then finish ream the new guide all using the B+S special tools.I would guess the…[Read more]

Looks like a Villiers F15 engine ?.Smoking issue (blue coloured smoke)…..make sure the engine is not overfilled with oil and that the crankcase breather is functioning properly.Check condition of piston,rings,cylinder bore and valve guides.If the smoke is black in colour then its an over rich fuel mixture so check the carburettor,the choke and…[Read more]

I think the engine fitted was a J.A.P model 5 so you should be able to find one of those quite easily.

What gearbox (make) is fitted on these Roper machines ?.I guess you will have to strip the gearbox and have a look inside.May be a stripped gear or damaged selector ?

They are a Wico ignition system on an AC120 engine.I have a few Wico bits and pieces if you get stuck.

TThey are a Wico ignition system on an AC120 engine.I have a few Wico bits and pieces if you get stuck.

Stick your hand over the back of the carb (to choke it) and see if it still does the same.If it keeps running you need to clean that carb (Zenith ???) more thoroughly.

Try Meetons for Villiers parts.

No problem.Sorry I cant help with your fuel tank / filter issue as I have never taken one apart but I hope you get it sorted.

I have an original manual for the JAP engine as used on the Rotary Hoes rotavator and the oil type is SAE30 for winter use and SAE40 for summer use.My owners manual states use “Wakefields Swanshot gear oil” for the rotor chain drive box and transmission / gearbox.Wakefields is now Castrol so give them a call to see what the modern equivalent is…[Read more]

Yes keep turning the flywheel nut.You will notice it becomes loose at first but keep on turning it and it will draw the flywheel of the taper.
Timing…..I set the points gap first.Then position the piston at TDC (there should be a scribed line or mark on the end of the crankshaft so that when its at 12 o clock the piston is at TDC).The alloy…[Read more]

Yes keep turning the flywheel nut.You will notice it becomes loose at first but keep on turning it and it will draw the flywheel of the taper.
Timing…..I set the points gap first.Then position the piston at TDC (there should be a scribed line or mark on the end of the crankshaft to ease finding TDC).The alloy armature plate should have a timing…[Read more]

Clean the points (contact breakers) and fit a new condenser while you are there.If still no spark a new HT coil is needed.