Charlie Moore (aka charlie)
@charlie Active 2 weeks, 1 day agoForum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
May 6, 2014 at 3:29 pm #7927
charlieKeymasterAll paid up members can of course download the latest copy from The Cultivator pages of the website.
May 6, 2014 at 3:28 pm #7926
charlieKeymasterOf course neither the Yanmar or Mitsi and their ploughs are eligible for the vintage class but interesting to see.
May 6, 2014 at 3:16 pm #7925
charlieKeymasterA good question and having a quick look at the series 1 gearbox casing I cannot see an obvious route. The instruction book indicates that oil will overflow from worm gear casing to main gearbox. To be safe I fill the main gearbox via the dipstick hole, a slow process, then fill worm gear via the filler. Later series 2 machines and all series 3 machines had a simple pump to pump oil upto the worm gears from the main box, each had its own dipstick.
May 6, 2014 at 2:45 pm #7924
charlieKeymasterThe Howard Gem is worth saving, in working order they are a very capable machine.
May 5, 2014 at 4:54 pm #7887
charlieKeymasterThere is always a good display of horticultural machines at this show, see June 2011 issue of The Cultivator for a report on that years show, so your comment that they are not interested is not true.
May 5, 2014 at 7:46 am #7877
charlieKeymasterVery interesting, almost certainly from somewhere in Europe the bonnet lines look familiar but I can’t think what.
May 5, 2014 at 7:38 am #7876
charlieKeymasterA good find. I agree with you a good clean and rub down with an oily rag.
May 4, 2014 at 7:07 pm #7865
charlieKeymasterHas the Earthquake had an engine swop, I see the gear lever is also further back than on my machine. Always good to see machines still working as they were intended. I still use my Earthquake.
May 4, 2014 at 7:04 pm #7862
charlieKeymasterYes keep turning after it goes tight, it designed to pull the flywheel off the taper which is why it will go tight. When putting the flywheel back make sure crank and flywheel surfaces of taper are clean and free of oil, for final tightening use an old spaaner and give it a good wack with a hammer. If it is not tight enough it will slip and throw the timing out.
May 4, 2014 at 6:59 pm #7854
charlieKeymasterMartin there is always the possibility that your entry form did not arrive, things do go astray in the post. Did you try and find out if it had been received?
May 4, 2014 at 6:57 pm #7853
charlieKeymasterNigel, depends if there are any spares. The reminder that is sent to all members that have not renewed in February does warn that they may not get a magazine. We only print enough for th enumber of members on the list plus a few for new members.
May 4, 2014 at 7:12 am #7842
charlieKeymasterI assume the engine is all that is left of the cement mixer, otherwise you could have shown that. Engine does sound good.
May 4, 2014 at 7:07 am #7841
charlieKeymasterMembers that renewed late may have missed the mailing list.
May 4, 2014 at 7:05 am #7840
charlieKeymasterJim glad to hear you managed to get the flywheel off. The Villiers coils do have a reputation for failing. If replacing the coil I would recommend spending the extra and also replace the points and condenser you will then be sure of a good spark. Corrosion between backplate and various components bolted to it can also be a problem as this is the way they are earthed.
May 3, 2014 at 7:54 pm #7834
charlieKeymasterWelcome to the forum. No spark may just be dirty points which can be accessed through the webs of the flywheel. The starter pulley is held on by either two bolts or a central bolt which screws into the end of the flywheel bolt which is a right hand thread and is a special bolt that after initial loosening will go tight again as it starts to pull flywheel off. I only have details of the 25C fitted to the Allen Scythe which may differ slightly. For piston rings and other spares try Meetens.
-
AuthorPosts
